September 2006
Friday September 1 ,2006
Today was going to be the day for the final 55 miles
to San Francisco as the forecast was looking good when we went to sleep
last night with light northwest winds. When we woke at 6 am to do a final
check of the morning forecast, the weatherman had revised it and now was
predicting south winds. We decided to just stay put and not beat ourselves
and Light Wave up.
Our next weather window and good day was going to be
on Monday Labor Day, so we resigned ourselves to spending the next three
days pleasantly anchored in Bodega Bay. I spent about eight hours over
the next three days modifying our screecher sail by hand-sewing the luff
of the sail to the spectra line that runs along the luff. This was to
improve the way it furls up in stronger wind. Carllie tried her hand at
baking some raisin bread which turned out delicious. We went for a short
walk one evening on shore and we found out that Bodega Bay’s claim
to fame is that is was the location for the filming of Alfred Hitchcock’s,
“The Birds”. Evidently there is a brisk tourist trade of film
buffs who travel here to get a glimpse of the film scene locations.
Monday September 4, 2006
The forecast was good for today so we woke up at 6 am
in the dark and were off at 7:30 am. The winds were calm and the just
a slight 3 or 4 foot swell from the northwest but it was grey overcast.
We motored for the first couple of hours but as we approached Point Reyes
the wind came up and we were able to set sail.
The wind rose to about 15 knots and were able to sail
at 6 to 8 knots for the remaining 35 miles to San Francisco. The sun burned
through the low cloud and it turned into a beautiful afternoon. Carllie
took the helm while I laid down for a nap. I had a good sleep for about
an hour until I was woken by this repetitive noise of “bang –
zzzzzzzap” …10 second pause …. “bang –zzzzzz
zap”. It turned out to be Carllie killing all the house flies that
had somehow found us five miles from land with the bug zapper / combo
fly swatter. (Carllie: I got about 20 of the little pests! Don't knock
it!)
We were both wide awake as we closed the last 10 miles
to the Golden Gate Bridge – each of us taking turns with binoculars
trying to spot it. At about 5:15 pm we caught our first glimpse of the
south tower. As we got closer and rounded Pt. Bonita the full bridge came
into view. It is truly an impressive sight. Each reddish orange tower
is over 600 feet tall and it supports a two mile bridge that has 6 lanes
on it. Here are our some pictures:
We were sailing wing-on-wing with both the yellow drifter
and screecher up and so we decided to lower the drifter before we got
to the bridge as we were really starting to fly in the stronger winds
which are funneled under the bridge.
As we lowered the drifter it didn’t fall onto the
deck like when we previously used it but instead fell into the water in
front of the boat. We then promptly ran over it at 6 knots of the entire
sail was under the boat (Carllie: and it was stretched tight over the
bowsprit and kept making these horrible ripping-like noises). We now had
a real mess on our hands as it had turned inside out and was acting as
a big drogue stopping the Light Wave. It was impossible to get out of
the water in its present state so we slowed the boat down further by rolling
up the screecher. We then let go of the sheet (one corner of the drifter)
and I slowly pulled it over the bow beam. This took about 15 minutes of
rush / panic of effort as we were almost in the main shipping channel.
We then put the screecher back up and properly sailed under the bridge.
(Carllie: Garett has in discussion with another sailor here found out
how to prevent this near catastrophe in the future. We will put a gromet
in the middle of the drifter with a long line attached, and pull that
line to collapse the drifter before we lower it.)

As we sailed under the bridge we gave a big “Yahoo”
and we heard a cheer from some of the many walkers 250 feet above us on
bridge walkway. On your right is the city proper and on the left to the
north is Richardson’s Bay and the town of Sausalito. The north half
of the San Francisco Bay is an upscale area similar to West Vancouver.
The Sausalito waterfront has five huge marinas with over
1000 boats moored there, most of them sailboats. Much of the bay is quite
shallow which suited us fine so we found a spot all by ourselves. The
only problem is that the bay has a very soft mud bottom so it took us
six tries to finally set the anchor and in fact we had to use two anchors
to hold us in place.
Our view looking west to the Sausalito was quite something.
The winds would come over the ridge and you could see the fog at the top
and it would dissipate as it swooped down into town.
As it was almost dark when we finally anchored we decided
to stay on the boat and go explore ashore tomorrow.
Tuesday September 5, 2006
When we woke in the morning we could see downtown San
Francisco form our anchorage. Little did we knwo this would be the last
time we would see it for four days.
We went ashore trying to find an open space in the one
of the marinas which might give us “reciprocal” moorage with
no charge. After misunderstanding some directions, we finally found a
spot at Schoonmaker Marina but unfortunately we had to pay.
We did find a supermarket called, “Mollie Stones”
and were at first quite excited. It turned out to be very expensive and
made Meinharts in Vancouver look like a Safeway. Some price examples per
pound are: bananas $1.19, green peppers $1.69. Avocadoes $1.79 each. The
only thing that was super reasonable was the watermelon at $0.29 per pound
so I got lucky and carried it home.
We finally got to take showers and by the time we were
settled in it was 6 pm.
We then went for another one of our “walks”
and found a sushi restaurant and then poked around downtown.
We did find a small grocery store with some limited vegetables
at somewhat tolerable prices and so we picked up a few things. Many of
the shops are very exclusive with art galleries and clothing stores. This
is an example of a knitted coat in one shop window.
We finally got back to the boat at 10 pm and here is
another picture of the fog coming over the hill in the moonlight.
Wednesday September 6, 2006
Now that we were in a calm marina our first job was to
go up the mast and carefully remove the radar transmitter.
We then took the radar and the broken autopilot in our
packsacks and walked to the West Marine electronic shop on the north end
of town. They said they would look at the radar as it was under warranty
and we could call them the next day.
We then went back to Light Wave and went for our weekly
run.
Thursday September 7, 2006
It was a beautiful sunny morning instead of the regular
fog that has been the norm.
I went to get a haircut and Carllie went to the laundromat.
My haircut was a really interesting experience. The Sausalito Barbershop
is a classic shop as though it was lifted out of the 1950’s. There
was various memorabilia on the walls signed by all the famous people who
had been there. The two barbers who work there have been there for over
20 years. Debbie who did my hair talked and talked while cutting my hair
for over a full hour! I though I was going to be bald. She did do a very
good job for only $20. Since there was no one waiting it seems as thought
they just drag it out so they have someone to talk to.
After the haircut and laundry we made our way down to
the radio shop and found out that they had to order a part for the radar
and that it would not be ready till Monday and that the autopilot would
have to go back to the manufacturer.
Since we were not going to get our radar back today there
was no point in continuing to pay the $28 per day at the marina so we
made arrangements to stay on a mooring buoy in front of the Sausalito
Yacht Club at the south end of town at no charge.
We moved the boat just before sunset. The mooring buoys
are quite secure but the general area is a quite rolly because of the
swell from the Golden Gate Bridge, the ferries, and the passing boats
coming onto the marinas but we did have access to the club and its showers
24/7. When we moved Light Wave we passed one very interesting floathome
that looks like the Taj Mahal.
Carllie: We are now nestled in at Sausalito, just across the Bay from
San Francisco. It's a lovely and very upscale subdivision, and we've enjoyed
trudging from one end to the other on foot, in our quest for grocieries,
West Marine store, electronics repairs, boatyard queries, laundry, moorage,
etc. Tonight is our first night of reciprocal (free) moorage at the Sausalito
Yacht Club, due to our membership in Vancouver/Victoria's Blue Water Cruising
Association. We'll be here for 4 nights, then hope to get the same privileges
at St. Francis Marina in San Francisco. (Later note: This didn't work
out.)
Friday September 8, 2006
Carllie: Tomorrow, we'll take
the passenger ferry (part of the bus system I guess) to San Francisco,
and will enjoy being tourists over there--though at least one resident
here has encouraged us to take in their museum which currently has a Monet
showing, and other local natural art spots rather than the typical touristy
stuff like Fishermen's Wharf and Pier 41 (39?). We do want to find Chinatown
to stock up on produce, as we've had to pay through the nose for produce
from big grocery stores, comparable to Safeways.
We're at a mooring buoy here as the SYC is not a marina, but a club and
only offers mooring buoys and a small dock outside the club. For the last
several minutes I've been hearing what sounds like either a seal or a
sea lion blowing outside. Hope it's not a whale! (Later note: it was the
ferry docks creaking and moaning, which they did all night. It was an
extremely windy night and we were yanking on the mooring buoy all night,
so I woke up scared spitless many times and didn't get much sleep.)
It's very windy tonight, and foggy of course. The fog rolls in like an
enormous hand over the hills every night, and the wind usually pipes up.
Consequently, there are thousands of sailboats here--for the wind--even
though they haven't the beautiful destination anchorages we have in B.C.
The whole Bay area and Sacramento delta estuary is so big that it would
take a lifetime to explore fully, we are told.
Garett: We did a little sightseeing today and visited
the Bay Model which is a 2 acre indoor model of the bay and estuary which
was used in predicting tides and effects of silting. It was built by the
Army Corps of Engineers. It cycles through one 6 hour tide cycle in just
4 minutes.
Another interesting thing we see all over the place is
Dillweed. They don't call it a weed for nothing as there are vast tracts
of this along many roads. Our friends Dorothy and Celeste would be in
paradise here.
We spied this "art car" in front of the liveaboard
hippy-styler marina. It had cd's glued to it with 100's of stuffed animals
inside it,and little ornaments glued all over the top, among other things.
Too many people with too much time....
Carllie: We saw Alcatraz when we sailed in on that very
windy Monday when we arrived, with many windsurfers zipping across the
Bay in front of it. However, it just doesn't appeal to us, knowing all
of the mental suffering that would have gone on in that place, and the
planes of mind that must be locked into every wall. We read yesterday
that it was opened in 1936 and operated until 1963, obviously after (or
maybe just before?) Burt Lancaster's "The Birdman of Alcatraz"
was filmed.
Saturday September 9, 2006
Garfield Kincross, a friend who's currently visiting
Vancouver, picked us up at 9 a.m. Saturday morning, and drove us all over
the City of San Francisco, which is across the Bay from Sausalito.
It was great, as we took in so many sights we wouldn't
have otherwise seen, and also were able to go to Trader Joe's and Costco
to stock up on food. The price of produce down the coast of the States
has been mostly quite prohibitive--like what you would pay for produce
at Safeways in Vancouver and more. Our first 3 nights here in Sausalito,
we couldn't find anywhere reasonable to get good produce (as Garett has
noted). So we had bought minimal amounts, hoping to get to Chinatown in
SF where we expected we could find a place to stock up. Sure enough, with
Garfield that's what we did, but because he had his car we were able to
buy lots.
San Francisco is a beautiful city--the homes are very different--99.99999%
are built City Townhome style--i.e., right up against each other and 3-4
stories high, with tiny court-yard type backyards. Some of these (right
off the Golden Gate Bridge on the waterfront street) are obviously extremely
poshy residences of extremely wealthy people.
In fact, although San Francisco contains a real mix
of races--Hispanic (from a bunch of Spanish-speakng clountries), Asian,
some East Indian, African, Italian, East European, and Anglo-Saxon), we
get the distinct impression from Garfield's interesting stories about
past events and political maneuverings in the City, that it is run by
The Rich. One example: a few years ago, they actually started fining people
who were feeding the homeless, and in at least one case, the police beat
up a person who did this regularly, threw him in gaol,and charged him
with spurious trumped-up offences. Due to the outcrye of The People, this
atrocious law was abandoned, I gather.
Garfield also showed us the huge and very impressive Art-Roman-Greco pavilion
SF built as the centre of the 1920 World Exposition. Plus lots of other
things.
With a car and a local, you can really get the flavour
of the place. Garfield was so very accommodating--nothing was too much--and
we look forward to giving him "Reciprocal" privileges in Vancouver
when we are home and he next visits. Though we can't put him up to stay
in our small home, we will take him on a day trip to Bowen Island to visit
and treat him to dinner at the Tuscany, a fabulous authentic pizza place
(wood oven baked),and explore the island on foot. (How's that sound, Garfield????
We'll take you to Costco too if you want!)
Garett: We also toured a 280-foot tallship, Baclutha,
in the marine district. It was built in 1886 and was built of iron. From
the 1900 to 1932 it plied the waters up to Alaska delivery wood and canned
salmon. (C: it was huge and amazing--a real education in the way merchant
sailors functioned. A volunteer told us that the method of operating one
of these vessels didn't change in 200 years, so you could take a sailor
from 150 years ago and put him on that vessel and within a day he would
know how to run the boat as all the lines and systems essentially hadn't
changed.)
Garett: My sailing friends Casey and Ross say that Light
Wave has alot of lines (C: for landlubbers, this means "ropes performing
certain functions"), well you have not seen anything yet!
While strolling along Fisherman's Wharf we came across
many different types of buskers. This one student, Gillina, was doing
a research paper at a local university and keeping track of the positive
responses. She would show the sign ("Can you spare a SMILE?) and
mark down whether you smiled. No donation required. We smiled before we
even saw the sign, so we got a big checkmark.
Sunday September 10, 2006
Carllie: We took the ferry over to SF yesterday (Sept 10) and were tourists
again, by ourselves,
Light Wave from the ferry no wonder
it was so rolly. We were very close
walking all around the Piers and up to Saks Fifth Avenue
(which I was very leary about entering in our scruffy boaters' cloathes
and packbacks, but they didn't throw us out as we goggled at $3,000 handbags
that Garett had no idea existed!) and Chinatown.
Garett and Carllie on the ferry...gee
my head is very big...must be salt water swelling.
C: This is one of Garett's "self-portraits"where he holds
the camera out in front of us--that's why his head is bigger!
We eventually did pay $10 US for a 15-min Cablecar ride--interesting
but very slow. (Garett:I think this is why people took up jogging.....
BTW, a "cable" car is different than a "street" car
in that there is a cable running under the street. It is a very complicated
system.)
Garfield also showed us yesterday the Most Crooked Street
in the World and we drove down it. We didn't have the energy to climb
to the top of Coit Tower. Garfield also drove us through Golden Gate Park--huge
and filled with interesting spots, but packed as it was Saturday. We saw
the remains of the historical Bath House right on the oceanfront that
had been built early 20th century, and were in use for several decades.
So big that they say 25,000 people could use the pool and "hot tub"
facilities at one time. They had swimming pools, hot pools and cold pools.
Sounds like good therapy and very healthy.
Chinatown
One of the best buskers we saw was the "Bush Man" (see below).
What this fella does is hide behind big pieces of bush he has cut, and
waits for an unaware suspect, who is usually engrossed in chatting with
a friend or just doing the mental processing we all do as we walk along
city streets. He then jumps out them with his bush shaking and growls/yells,
"Yaaaaggggghhh!" or some variation thereof. The victim jumps
a mile and each has varying reactions (as per the "Boo!" video
clip I emailed most of my friends about a month before we left Vancouver).
They are all SOOO funny. [Garett: like a continueous Candid Camera.] So
you get all of these people gathering behind the Bush Man (from the same
area the picture is taken from) just to watch the reactions. It takes
a few minutes to get another unsuspecting victim, as people close to the
last one have seen what happens and they give the Bush Man a wide berth,
a big smile plastered on their faces the while. Eventually, though, another
hapless soul comes along totally absorbed and unaware. The Bush Man jumps
out, "Bleaaaaggghhhh!", they jump sideways, slap hand to chest,
skitter across the sidewalk, scream, laugh, and carry on laughing as they
smile at the "audience" and shake their heads. It's the best
busker entertainment we've ever seen and he got the most money too.
I've considered taking up this fun occupation when we
return to Vancouver, but I just don't think my white conservative female
persona would cut it. This guy was dressed in brown and green, and he
is Afro-American so he "blended in" with the bushes very well.
Plus he has this great gravelly voice, perfect for scaring!
We came back to Sausalito on the second-to-last ferry
of the Sunday, rested then made a wonderful all vegetable dinner.
Garett has decided we need to raise the floor of the
cuddy cabin again, to prevent banging, and for safety. So guess what?
We're going to get hauled out on Wednesday and will be in a boatyard for
5 days! Hoo boy! I can hardly wait. But I understand his concerns, and
concur of course.
A huge bank of fog rolls in every single night from the ocean, drawn by
the low pressure area that has built up over the warming land. We've had
several good sunny days, however. Yesterday being one, and today obviously
will be another. The fog dissipates once it reaches warm enough air, so
it lingers over the water, and often obscures SF. Although it's 8 a.m.,
the fog horns are still blaring as I guess there's still fog at the entrance,
just around the corner, and under the Golden Gate Bridge.
Monday September 11, 2006
We are up and getting ready to leave Sausalito Yacht
Club to again anchor in soft-bottomed Richardson Bay today so we can hopefully
pick up our repaired radar from West Marine and our mail package at Fed
Ex Kinko's. We will then head over to Angel Island Park which is 700 acres
in size and right in the middle of the bay area.
Monday September 11, 2006
Garett: As we mentioned in our last update we had decided
to raise the floor of the nacelle under the table of the cuddy cabin 5
inches except for the aft 2.5 feet directly in the galley where we have
to stand to cook and do dishes. How we decided this requires a little
background. On our trip down the Washington and Oregon coast we had received
quite a bit of water slamming under the nacelle, which is noisy as well
as unnerving, rather than a structural safety issue. But it could be a
safety issue on an extended crossing. Carllie and I talked about this
since we we'd been in Bodega Bay, and decided that we should do this modification
now for our own peace of mind.
The modification required cutting out a section of the
existing floor (6 by 2 feet) and raising it 5 inches. To do this it we
thought we would have to lift the boat out of the water. On Monday we
went to shore to make some phone calls to confirm to a possible boat yard
at Nelson Marine over in Alameda. It turns out that their travel-lift
can only handle boats to 17 feet wide where we are 17.5 so we couldn’t
fit. They directed me to another place, and finally after four more calls
I reached a yard on the Napa River that has a rail lift where they slide
a rail car under you and then pull you up on to shore as opposed to lifting
you out, and can handle boats to 25-30 feet wide and possible more. The
rate was $500 in and out plus $100 per day in the yard. We were looking
at a $1200 bill before materials! This was just too much money. We thought
some more about it and I figured that with some careful planning we could
it do it at the dock while still in the water. [Carllie: This was definitely
Garett's Engineering Degree speaking....and perhaps the problem-solving
skills he's honed over the last 10 years as a computer programmer? I tell
you: Nothing is impossible to this guy!]
Garett: When you see the pictures of our work over the
following week, I know you are going to think we are totally loony. [Carllie:
Weeeeellll maybe....] Our first step was to find a marina where they would
not mind us working on the dock and had a Home Depot and other services
nearby. We decided that on Wednesday we would move our boat to Marina
Bay Harbour in Richmond which is about 8 miles away near Oakland.
After making our phone calls, as we motored back from
shore, we saw another yellow catamaran at anchor in Richardson Bay! It
looked like Light Wave’s big brother., so we promptly motored over
to say "Hallllooo!"
Light Wave's big brother???
As we got closer we realized it was quite a bit bigger,
at 39 feet. We were warmly greeted by a couple from Germany and Austria,
Uve (pronounced Ooo' Vay) and Eva Keil, who started building their boat
at the same time we did 9 years ago but have been offshore cruising for
the last 7 years since launching in 1999. They invited us aboard. It turns
out they had just sailed down from Vancouver after going up to Alaska
this summer.
Their boat is called Quinuituq (pronounced Kwin' oo wee'
took) and means “deep patience” in Inuit. They built her in
France and she is made of plywood covered in epoxy and fiberglass. She
is beautifully finished and very well set up for cruising. Uwe and Eva
had just come in to San Francisco an hour ago so we left them to recover
while we took Light Wave over to Angel Island Marine Park, about four
miles away, for the night. We agreed to get together on Tuesday evening
to visit again.
Carllie: Eva was at little of tired of sailing and was
very humorously expressive about it, even though she was so warmly gracious
in having us visit them on Quinuituq (but only as far as the threshold
to their bridge deck as No Way she was going to show us inside their home
until she had cleaned it!). Although they had been sailing offshore for
seven years, she said "The ocean scares me!" I think she was
just pooped and worn out from their long trip to San Francisco, even though
they had harbor-hopped as we had. I think they had done the trip much
faster, and perhaps had higher seas. They do six-hour watches at night,
and that's quite awhile to be alone at the helm, so maybe that was it.
When we met with them last night (Sept. 21), she was happily enjoying
their boat and boating life, and exploring Sausalito and San Francisco
while energetically getting to know fellow cruisers with common interests.
Tuesday September 12, 2006
Garett: We sailed to nearby Angel Island (between San
Francisco/Sausalito and Belvedere/Tiburon/Richmond), tied up to a mooring
buoy in Ayala Cove last night and went ashore this morning to explore.
Angel Island is plunk in the middle of the Bay area. It is about 2 miles
in diameter and about 600 feet high. The island was used by the military
for various uses for the last 150 years and has various forts and houses
left over from the 1960’s. It became a national park in 1970, but
still has some off-limit areas with military buildings being restored.
We went on what is called the “blue trail” which slowly winds
away to the lookout right on top--about 1.5 hours). The park seems to
be the subject to budget cuts as the trails were not well marked (never
did see the “blue markers” or any markers) and many of the
safety rails were falling apart from neglect. The trail was a very pleasant
walk through the trees and we did get some great pictures of the whole
area from the lookout.
Carllie: Made our parks and trails in the Gulf Islands
and beyond in B.C. look wonderful! So well maintained.
Golden Gate Bridge;
We can never resist taking a pic of Light Wave even from a high distance!
Views from Angel Island trail and lookout.
Garett: We left at 4 pm and did a little
sailing off San Francisco along with all the other enthusiastic sailors,
and anchored back in Richardson Bay about 100 yards from Uve and Eva.
We grabbed some nachos chips and salsa and headed over for a visit.
[Carllie: Quinuituq was now spotless and Eva was happy
to show us around, having spent the day doing laundry and cleaning! What
a woman! This is only a very small sided of her energy output; she is
very creative and I will tell you about that in a bit.] Garett: They gave
us the grand tour of their boat and in one of the hulls Eva has a workshop
for doing jewelry work. She is very creative and original in the work
she does. They do a trip every year back to Germany.
Carllie: Okay I guess I'll tell you now. Eva Keil is
a fantastic silver and goldsmith/jewelry designer. While Uwe was showing
Garett pictures on his laptop of previous travels to places we may just
get to, Eva was showing me her "inventory" of jewelry that she's
made so far and has not yet sold. I slathered, to put it mildly. My heart
sped up, and my "Gimmee gimmee gimmee!" nature came prominently
to the fore. I mean, these pieces are TO DIE FOR!!! Eva loves her work
and their lifestyle is for it: they visit may South Sea Islands where
she buys exquisite pearls that are very unique (like a beautiful big round
pearl that is deep green and aubergine color) plus special shells and
even nuts that she cuts, grinds and polishes to show their beauty. She
also has a contact for uncut opals and much of her jewelry has a small
or large opal set in strategically. She creates beautiful and unique setting
for each piece, using gold and silver combined or individually, and sometimes
leather. She designs and creates pendants on special leather chokers she's
made; her own very unique silver chains for necklaces and bracelets; pins;
rings (for fingers and toes); sarong clips and hair clips; earrings; just
everything a discerning woman could want!!! Here are some pictures of
her work:.
Eva goes back to Europe once a year for
shows where she sells her creations, and I think at that time she also
takes custom orders and delivers orders she's already taken. She inspires
me with her creativity and the beautiful jewelry she offers. "A thing
of beauty is a joy forever." Many hints have been sent Garett's way...anniversary,
Christmas, birthday, Valentine's Day, ummmmm, Good Wives Day (March 12th
in case you didn't know), Good Cooks Day (April 12th), Good Homemakers
Day (May 12th), Good Companions Day (June 12th), Good First Mates Day
(July 12th), Good Cookie Bakers Day (August 12th), Good Banana Bread Bakers
Day (September 12th)....and Yup! That takes us back to the Anniversary
(October 22nd!)...oh I guess there's that other little thing: Good Patio
Gardeners Day (November 12th)... So Eva! Get ready for some serious production!
Garett: They showed us many pictures of their travels
and talked about their cruising, sharing their experience and giving us
lots of tips along the way. When I mentioned that we had a big storm anchor
in a locker, Uwe advised me to use the biggest anchor you have all the
time as you know never know when the wind will come up and this way it
is always set and you can have some peace of mind when asleep or ashore.
[Carllie: Plus, how can you put your "Big Gun" out once you're
already at anchor the wind is suddenly wailing at 40-50 kts? Why didn't
we think of this before? We've now--as of Sept 19--put away our original
anchor with the original anchor rode, well washed with fresh water, and
Garett has installed the new Big Gun very carefully on our bow beam, adding
a metal plate under the beam to prevent the anchor banging, and drilling
a hole through the shaft of the anchor so that we could put our special
steel holder through it, to hold the anchor in place. Big Gun is VERY
HEAVY and we are still working out a strategy for me to deploy it and
Garett to haul it up without injuring ourselves. We will use one of our
new heavier Anderson winches as a windlass if we're leaving in windy conditions.
Our original anchor will now be our "back-up anchor" to use
as a second bow anchor. We have a third anchor that we keep in the cockpit
to use as a stern anchor. Eva and Uwe both stressed that secure anchoring
is one of the most important aspects of safe cruising.]
Garett: The engine on the Keils' little inflatable dinghy
was painted yellow, and Uwe told us this is because thieves will not steal
a yellow motor as it is too hard to sell. We did both these modifications
over the next week. [Carllie: It's great what you can do with a spray
can of good paint from Home Depot! Three coats over three on the last
dock at Marina Bay, with the wind blowing away from the boats did the
trick!]
Uwe (pronounced Ooo' vay) and Eva Keil
in their lovely catamaran Quinuituq.
Wednesday September 13, 2006
Garett: We left midday Marina Bay in Richmond and arrived
at 4 pm. As we made our way there the wind was gradually building. When
we tied up at the harbor master dock to get our slip assignment in this
huge 850-boat marina it was really howling. After being assigned our slip
on D dock we found that we were pinned to the harbor maste'rs dock by
the wind and couldn’t move. We decided to go for a walk to historic
old Richmond which was “only 1 mile away”. Well like usual
it was a much further walk. As we left the marina the area was new light
industrial buildings but as soon as we crossed the Interstate, the area
seemed to deteriorate rapidly. Soon it was very deserted with many rundown
buildings and a few very suspicious-looking characters.
When we finally did get to the old town, which was quite
nice, ,we decided it might not be the best thing to walk back in the dark
through this rough part of town so we went to a Quality Inn and called
a cab. While waiting for the cab I picked up a local newspaper in the
lobby. As I scanned the articles I read that Richmond has the highest
homicide rate in California because of the extensive drug trade and prostitution
and is one of the roughest areas in the state. Good thing we are taking
a cab back…[Carllie: We were later advised that we should NEVER
cross the highway to walk in that area of Richmond; that they have a homicide
a week; that you just DON'T go there after dark. This is not quite the
area we were in, luckily, but now we know that we have to really ask about
an area before we go walking in it!]
Garett: When we got back to the boat at sunset the wind
had eased so we quickly moved the boat to our assigned slip. As soon as
we got there, before we had even tied up, the winds really picked up and
blew at 30 knots for the next 36 hours but at least we were safe an tucked
in. [Carllie: We put mooring lines everywhere, but felt very safe even
though we were almost blown away every time we walked out a door or hatch.]
Thursday September 14, 2006
We had a lot of things to buy and to run around for so
we decided to rent a car. Enterprise Car Rental came to pick us up at
the marina and so the meter started on our “24” hours. We
spent the rest of the afternoon in our PT Cruiser going to Home Depot
for wood and supplies and West Marine and doing numerous trips from the
parking lot to where are boat was at the end of “D Dock” about
a quarter mile from the gate.
Friday September 15, 2006
We squeezed in a trip to Costco for a few things and
then returned the car and got driven back to the marina. A note on the
marina: there are mostly sailboats (as at all Bay Area marinas) and there
is a small group of liveaboards who have created a nice little community
as well as built in security. We got to know several of the very nice
people there. Here are a few pictures:
Nan Mitchell with her Australian Shepherd,
Captain, and Greg Figueroa,
who does canvas work, with Carllie--ever the dog-lover.
Captain definitely didn't like bath time
when Nan held the dock hose on him for about 20 minutes with shampoo.
Hey! I wouldn't have liked it either.-C.
A happy Captain, dry and fluffy.
Late Friday afternoon we were now ready
to go with our big pile of supplies:
Here is what the cabin looked like before
we started:
Saturday September 16, 2006
This was the first of five perfect days with sunny skies
and light winds which according to the locals is their Indian summer which
runs through November so it was ideal for our work. [Carllie: unlike Vancouver,
the only time you have to worry about rain in the San Francisco Bay Area
is November through January. So we could leave things out, hatches open,
etc., without worrying they would be ruined by water.]
G: The first step was to prepare the new
floor by coating it with fiberglass and epoxy on both sides.
We then applied beads of white sealant
on
the bottom to act as an additional
shock absorber:
As we waited for things to dry we visited with people
in the marina and went for a few walks on the shore walk.
Sunday September 17, 2006
We sealed off the cuddy cabin with plastic so that the
dust would not go everywhere. We now would not have access to our food
and stuff for the next few days so we dug out a few supplies and started
living in our port sleeping hull.
Carllie: Camping out. It lasted three days
and nights, and we felt very intrepid! We pulled food out of our fridge,
removed the grill from the barbecue, and cooked on it. Then we sat down
in our "bedroom hull" to eat our dinner at about 8 p.m. each
night, and fall exhausted into bed by 9 or so.
!
Garett: I had to grind away the existing paint so we
could glue to bare wood. I took most of my tools with us but one thing
I didn’t think I would need is my ear muff sound protectors. So
we improvised a set-up with some closed cell foam and masking tape. I
am not really unhappy in the picture below but I couldn’t smile
as the tape that Carllie had “carefully” applied was pulling
so hard around my face.
The grinding only took an hour. The whole process is
similar to a dentist's as we grind off the bad and then glue in the new
filling. After that we spent three hours dry fitting all the pieces for
the new floor.
Now came the moment of commitment when we had to cut
out the old floor. I used a jigsaw to cut out the first part of the floor
and then reached under the remaining floor to apply some 3M 4200 sealant
beads for further "bounce/reflective protection".
I then cut out the remaining part of the
floor by drilling holes 1/4 inch apart along the whole perimeter. Finally
it came loose and I pulled it out. [Carllie: what a job!]
I then grinded some more to clean up the edges. By the
time we were ready to start gluing it was almost dark and we were tired
so we walked over to the little strip mall which had a Mexican restaurant
and a Quizno’s. When we got there everything was closed for Sunday
night so went back to the boat and had granola for dinner…..
Carllie: Here's the "ventilated"
Light Wave cuddy cabin that we left to go to sleep. On viewing the pics
later, our friend Uve found a plus: "A 28-foot boat with an indoor
pool!"
Monday September 18, 2006
We were up early for our big gluing day. All the pieces
were ready and precut so for 6 hours Carllie mixed epoxy and filler and
we carefully glued in the pieces.
I was able to borrow a small old dinghy from a really
nice fella in the marina, Larry Rouse, allowing me to slide under the
boat to clean up some of the squeezed-out epoxy. With all this done now
we had to wait for everything to set up, so went for a late Mexican super
veggie burrito lunch.
Tuesday September 19, 2006
The glue had set up well so that all that remained for
today was finishing sanding and five coats of paint. Between coats of
paint we did a whole host of other jobs like switching to the big anchor,
some interior painting, and painting the engine cover, washing off the
original anchor rode, fitting the new Big Gun anchor.
Wednesday September 20, 2006
We finished off with a final coat of clear coat and we
were all done. You can't tell that we have done some major surgery, can
you?
We had picked up our repaired Furuno radar from West
Marine before we had left for Richmond to do our repairs, so I went up
the mast for an hour and reinstalled it. [Carllie: While I did a ton of
laundry on this our last day at a lovely marina where we could shower
twice a day and do free laundry, well free as in "included in the
cheap moorage price".] We washed the outside of the boat and everything
looked as good as new. We said goodbye to our new friends at about 5 pm
and then motored back to Richardson Bay to a beautiful sunset.
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Carllie: It was great to be back in Sausalito, where
we can walk day and night no fears or worries! Once we got going in the
morning, we motored ashore with our spiffy new yellow engine, and walked
to West Marine to pick up a couple of replacement tiller extension connectors
and found some fabulously inexpensive folding chairs to replace the one
I lost on the windy dock at Richmond (big upset, that!). Now, we have
MATCHING navy blue comfy cockpit chairs, so we can sit outside on warm
days and evenings (which we are having now and expect to have more of)
and enjoy the view and breezes while we eat or read. Of course, Light
Wave's cuddy cabin gives us a great 360 degree view anyway, but it's just
nice to be outside. Then we trudged over to Mollie Stones to get some
bread and Romaine lettuce. (We are now FULLY stocked up for food, except
for a couple of hot peppers that I will buy today. After running totally
out of produce during our 5-day Bodega Bay stint, I'm a bit paranoid about
it, so I tend to want to buy it everywhere.) We have to use up all of
our dried and can food that we started out with: various types of legumes,
rice, etc., but to do that you have to have such things as cooking onions,
carrots, green peppers, tomatoes, etc., to do make the recipes.
When we docked last night, we were dismayed to not find
Quinuituq in the spot we had last seen her, and sadly concluded that we
wouldn't see Eva & Uwe again. However, early this morning, Garett
saw them anchored (actually tied to a mooring buoy) further into shore,
where it turns out they had moved during the heavy winds and waves we
also got in Richmond the week before). When we checked out he Cruisers
Club, we found their dinghy with their unmistakable yellow engine, and
I left them a note inviting them over for cookies at 7:30 that night.
When got back to Light Wave, I had a cooking/baking marathon
while Garett fixed the tiller extension and rested after his long week
of hard hard work. I made a nice tasty black bean recipe, that we will
again have for another dinner with rice, plus my famous chocolate chip
cookies which have now actually evolved into enlightened carob-cranberry-coconut-walnut
cookies. Of about 30 cookies, there were only 11 left by the end of the
evening, and we gave 8 to Uwe & Eva. So I guess I'll have to make
some more pretty soon!
It was great visiting with Uwe and Eva again. After Garett
proudly showed them all of the shippy features we (he) have built into
Light Wave, and we showed them our three separate living areas, we settled
in to the cuddy cabin for a candlelit chat. Garett showed them all of
our recent pics, including those of our work-a-thon modifying the floor.
It's amazing how many things we found to talk about. One of the subjects
we discussed was slowing down. When we visited them on their boat and
said that our original plan was to sail a year and a half, they both shook
their heads and said you need at least 2 years to really unwind. Two years!
We had heard three months!
Well, this was an adjustment to our perspective. Uwe
explained that they now don't think in terms of days, they think in terms
of seasons. You start off, fresh from the city craziness, where you live
in terms of "minutes". As you slow down you go to "hours"
then "days". Then, it's week, and eventually, it's from one
season to the next. This is not to say that the Keils are not active and
productive with their time; they are. It just means that ideal state is
to relax one's mind and body to the point where you stop thinking you
HAVE to do something right now, today or tomorrow, or even next week.
Garett and I figure we are somewhere living- by-the-day to living-by-the-week
stage.
We truly enjoyed Uwe and Eva's hilarious senses of humour
and viewpoints on cruising and people, and hope to emulate their lessons
in our future endeavours. They've found a good place to moor Quinuituq
safely at San Raphael, and will be leaving for Europe mid-October. When
they come back, they will be sailing down to Mexico, so we hope to meet
up with them again there. Meantime, we will keep in touch via email and
websites.
We plan to leave the San Francisco area on Saturday for our
next stage of harbor hopping to San Diego. Everyone take care and we’ll
talk to you soon!
Saturday, September 23 2006
Carllie: After three weeks in the San Francisco Bay area, we
were itching to get going even though we made many new friends. By the way here
are is a link to the photos of my friend Eva
Keil’s jewelry that I mentioned in our last update.
We chose our days and favorable weather conditions,
and awoke very early this day so that we could go through the Golden Gate (the
name of the channel as well as the bridge) at slack tide.
One simply cannot go through at any other time
due to the strong winds and tides. We motored our way through the other boats
anchored in Richardson Bay in the morning haze (“The morning fog may chill
the air, I don’t care” according to Tony Bennett) and managed to
reach the start of the channel at slack tide, 8:15 a.m., which didn’t
last very long! The towers of the Golden Gate Bridge loomed overhead as we bade
this bustling metropolis goodbye, knowing that it will be quite some time before
we see this sight again. We had had enough of “city living” and
longed for the wind in our sails and less populated anchorages.
Approaching Golden Bridge for last time. Going...
going.....
gone....
Backing up a little: The night before our departure, we took
our dinghy in to the Sausalito Cruising Club and enjoyed their fabulous Friday
night buffet and the company of some other offshore cruisers doing the same
thing we are doing. Sausalito Cruising Club was established back in the 1950’s
for offshore cruisers. It is built on a barge attached to shore, and their mandate
is the provide a safe haven and welcome for offshore cruisers. They have shower
facilities plus a fairly simply dining room and pub area. When we returned to
Richardson Bay from our boat modification stint in Richmond, we motored in to
the club as we had heard about it. I did the “negotiating” this
time, and a very kind older gentleman whose name was Grute (sp? it’s German)
explained the procedure: we simply had to sign in for the club key, and could
thereafter come anytime to tie up our dingy on their secure dinghy dock, shower,
and have access through their gate to Sausalito. We were sorry we hadn’t
discovered this when we first arrived at San Francisco, as we spent quite a
hefty amount at the Schoonmaker Marina for two nights, and before and after
that when we were at anchor had no access to showers.
The SYC’s Friday night buffet was fabulous, especially
for we non-meat-eaters. They had a huge all you can eat buffet of fresh Caesar
salad, a lovely mixed vegetable salad, two or three types of yummy pasta, garlic
bread, and baked potatoes, all for $8.00! Meat or tuna steaks were also available
for an extra $4.00. All of this was accompanied by a nice live band with a female
singer, which helped make the evening lively though not quite “danceable”
in my books. (If you go, be sure to snag a table as far as possible from the
band, so you can carry on a conversation!) We will be sure to send a note to
our “club”, Blue Water Cruising Association, so they can post this
note perhaps in the May 2007 issue of their newsletter, for 2007 “leavers”
as they call them. At the dinner we met Marion and Bruce who had arrived on
their sailing ketch from Bellingham, and Wendy and Ken Squirrell, fellow members
of BWCA, who had arrived on their Privilege 42 catamaran from Victoria, B.C.
Our thanks to Sausalito Yacht Club for maintaining their history of welcoming
“yachties”. We sure do appreciate those showers wherever we can
get them!
We only had 25 miles to go to reach our next stop, Half Moon
Bay, and we sailed about one hour out of five. I had been longing to “get
going!” armed of course with my seasickness patches. Amazing what a difference
it makes knowing I’m not going to be deathly ill once we get out in the
not-so-swell swells! I do all kinds of things! I cook! I bake! I read! I haven’t
quite gotten to the point of writing or knitting yet, but that’s coming.
Has to, if we’re going to spend three weeks crossing from Mexico to Hawaii…or
wherever!
We entered Half Moon Bay through the breakwaters, arriving
around 3 pm, and stayed two nights.
Garett:We had difficulty anchoring in the soft mud bottom and
after four tries my arms were sore with our new heavy super anchor and a 1950
circa 42 foot wooden power boat, Seascape, with Simon and Sunny invited us to
tie up for a cup of tea. They are from Victoria and have cruised 20,000 miles
on the BC coast and are now taking a few years to cruise farther south. We chatted
for about 2 hours and as it was now getting dark we untied from their boat and
motored off 100 yards and found a place where we could successfully anchor.
I am sure we will see them again.
Sunday September 24, 2006
Carllie: This is another tourist destination, and we enjoyed
a nice long walk along the roads and back on the lovely sandy beach, wading
out into the surf to the point our shorts allowed. The undertow created by the
waves rushing back out to sea pulls your feet and ankles fiercely; the water
is not icy, but definitely cool, and it’s not a place you would go swimming.
But everyone was enjoying wading and the kids would “challenge”
the incoming surf wading out further and further, and then run screeching in
to safety.
Garett took this great picture of the patterns in the sand
and the receding surf.
We saw these two unique beachside homes that have been decorated
with very imaginative carvings and creations. No doubt they are worth at least
$400,000 U.S. each!
that's a big 300 pound rock
suspended above the gate
Garett: When back at the boat a very interesting powercat came
by.
We also took this picture of ourselves in a very reflective
mirror. We have become tourists…
Monday, September 25, 2006
Carllie: Another foggy early departure saw us on our way to
Capitola, a spot recommended by a sailor Garett had met at Half Moon Bay (the
time he decided to go for a little exploration of the anchorage in the dinghy
just before sunset, and didn’t return for 2 hours…not popular with
the First Mate who had begun having conniptions worrying about his fate without
a life jacket…) It was a 55mile trip and we sailed for 8 out of 11 hours.
It was a little dicey for the last 10 miles as the fog had
really come in and we could only see about 200 yards. On our final arrival we
had to make out where the kelp beds were, and anchor between them, but we managed,
just barely. It was a pretty open anchorage, though, so we only stayed the night
and left the next day for the short jaunt to Monterey.
Garett: Today was Carllie’s coming out day as a sailor.
Now that she is feeling better she started doing most of the sail raising, setting
and lowering. She even did some bow work of tying up the jib while being tethered
onto with her safety harness. I was very proud of her; it was like seeing a
baby take its first step.
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Garett: It was quite rolly off Capitola and so we decided to
just look at the pretty shops from the boat and leave for Monterey.
note the surf breaking on beach
that is why it was so rolly
Carllie: We had a great downwind sail on a broad reach to Monterey,
25 miles from Capitola across Monterey Bay, using the main, jib and screecher.
The sun actually came out and the motion was so comfortable
that we actually slept in the hull on our comfy sleeping mattresses taking turns
while the other took the helm. The swells were very minimal and well spaced,
as the sea action was so gentle. It’s always so much more fun to sail
than motor, and I am gradually “learning the ropes” that Garett
has been adding to and refining since we launched Light Wave.
We had to avoid a military restricted area to reach Monterey,
and mysteriously for quite some time got no depth reading on our GPS. Later
we discovered that a very deep canyon lies under Monterey Bay, which is why
our sonar gave up. When we reached the city, we were met with a huge field of
mooring buoys both inside the breakwater and out. To avoid a $15-$30 per night
charge (for nothing basically), we anchored instead, and motored ashore as soon
as Garett put together our PortaBote and attached our bright yellow engine.
Before we got going, though, Marion and Bruce rowed over and said hello. It’s
always helpful to meet friends in a new anchorage as you feel a little less
overwhelmed. And thanks to their advice, we knew where to tie up our dingy and
how to access the showers at the Harbor Master’s Office (a deposit gives
you a key and free, wonderfully hot unlimited showers).
Wandering around on Monterey’s seaside boardwalk and
then up the streets into the town, we struck it lucky. We discovered a three-block-long
Farmer’s Market that only happens Tuesday night from 4 to 8 p.m. This
was the biggest open market we’ve ever seen, and we augmented our produce
with tomatoes, zucchini and peppers and our starch locker with two loaves of
bread and inhaled the tempting aromas of a plethora of ethnic food stands while
resisting the promptings of our tummies. We had so much food on board, we just
had to eat it up!
Oh! Something else that abounds at the marinas and anchorages
off Monterey are…you guessed it!...sea lions. Holy schmolie! This time
they set a record. They were everywhere. A big long dock built for commercial
fishermen unloading into canneries rests on big criss-crossed pilings and supports
and these supports are laden with big bruiser sea lions, even though they are
a good 4-6 feet off the water. These guys can leap, let me tell you! So again
it was “bark bark honk honk honk” all night long, loudly and without
surcease. Still, it’s a natural sound and doesn’t keep you awake
(like the awful Mexican music did last night Sept 30 at Morro Bay until about
2 a.m.!).
Wednesday September 27, 2006
Carllie: Visitors’ maps and friendly advice provided
by the Harbor Master clued us into the local attractions which include several
historical sites, two Thomas Kinkade galleries, and the incomparable Monterey
Aquarium.
We got another early start, showered in the Harbor Master’s
building, and trekked off on the boardwalk to visit the sites. By the time we
got going it was still not early enough so we decided to head straight to the
Aquarium, about 1 ½ miles west.
Visiting the Monterey Aquarium was an unforgettable experience.
We stood enthralled viewing their sea otters through the underwater glass and
took some great pictures of these most entertaining and fluid creatures. Visitors
get lots of information from the paid employees and volunteers who are always
right there to inform, educate and guide. We met the 5 resident otters and learned
that one had just returned from her duties as surrogate nurse/mother to an orphaned
baby otter. The Aquarium frequently finds these orphans and brings them in to
nurse to maturity, then releases them back into the wild and monitors how well
they do. If they don’t do well, they will be taken back into the fold.
We then went upstairs and watched the sea otters’ feeding/training session
and learned even more about these little critters, who are not shy and quite
happy in their home.
Next we found underwater viewing of a huge fish tank with many
different species of bottom fish, a few tiger shark and a funny looking California
sheep face. A very friendly and knowledgeable guide, Christine, invited us to
sit down on the floor as all of the seats were full, and wait for the diver
to come to feed the fish. When he came he had a mike attached so he told us
what he was doing the whole time, as he hand fed eels, small sharks, and all
of these different fish. Half an hour later we had learned that it’s better
to buy your calamari at fish bait shop than a seafood shop, as you pay a lot
less and get the same thing! We also learned about the kelp beds and how important
they are to the bottom fish, the sea otters and visiting whales. The bigger
whales (not Orca) eat krill, which proliferates in the ocean.
At another underwater tank, we saw a juvenile Great White Shark
and lots of very big yellow fin and blue fin tuna. The Aquarium is nurturing
this Great White for a little while longer, as it is growing at such a rapid
rate that it will soon be impossible to keep up with. Apparently these notorious
sharks are endangered. Ahem! I’m happy with that…
We were amazed to find this “bird habitat” at the
Aquarium where all of these sea and shore birds live very contentedly within
a hand’s reach of visiting humans, and show no sign of nervousness.
The next stop was a pool of Bat Wing Mantarays, where you could
reach down and touch the little guys. I tried a few times, but each time little
Batwing would come just a few inches from my hand and then veer away. Finally,
I stroked his silky wings. (But this pic is Garett's hairy arm, not mine!)
On the way back from the Aquarium, we visited the Thomas Kinkade
gallery and browsed through reproductions of this talented painter’s “paintings
full of light”. You may have received a Christmas card with a Thomas Kinkade
painting showing the light shining out from a cottage or street lights. We were
told at the Harbor Master’s office that Kinkade, who lives in Monterey,
has made so much money that he gives it all away to charities now. If that’s
true, Good on Thomas Kinkade! And, please remember the Hennigan Adventure Charity!
In one of his “friendly puppy” chats, Garett had
learned that there was indeed one squash court in Monterey, at a private men’s
club just a few blocks into the town. So we had to trek over and get the lay
of the land. A discreet sign announced the Pacheco Club, and its men-only status,
at a big brown door in an adobe building, no windows, with one little buzzer
on the side. I stood well back while Garett pressed the buzzer, twice. A conveniently
tall, sober-looking, man with white shirt and tie answered the door and peered
down his disapproving face at Garett, who started his “win-‘em-over-with-St.
Bernard-like-charm” spiel, “Hi there! We’ve sailed here from
Vancouver and I’m an open squash player. I was wondering if I could get
a game?” ...Wrong, I don’t think so! The guy peers even more disapprovingly
(if that was possible) down his snooty nose and says, “We do have one
squash court, <long pause> but this is a Private Men’s Club”,
(distinct emphasis on the “Men’s”) and firmly shut the door
in Garett’s face. I laughed my head off as I did a fair-to-middling imitation
of the guy’s general British-Butler-like demeanor and pushed up the tip
of my nose with my finger.
Garett: The only thing I kicked myself for not doing was thinking
fast enough to ask, ”Well how can I join?” it would have been interesting
to see the response. Well I am going to make sure Vancouver Racquet Club does
not let in any of their members… It was very funny and we went through
the rest of the day saying, ‘This is a Private MENS Club’ over and
over again.
Carllie: It’s always a hoot when Garett’s friendly-puppy
approach falls flat as he just NEVER expects rejection (which is admittedly
why he seldom is rejected). We laughed and laughed and dragged our miserable,
poor, raggedy, boat-smelling selves away from the Pacheco Club.
We loved Monterey, and found it more comfortable than San Francisco—fewer
frantic tourists and less hustle of business and equally frantic residents—and
may even visit it again via AmTrak or 4-wheel vehicle driven by internal combustion
engine.
Thursday, September 28 2006
Carllie: Our next jaunt was going to be another 115 mile over-nighter
to Morro Bay, and to avoid arriving before dawn we left Monterey at 11:15 a.m.
It took awhile for me to get comfortable with being “way out there”
again and doing my watches even during the daylight.
Garett: At about 2 in the afternoon we saw about a mile to
the west a humpback whale slapping its fin in the water and breaching. As our
courses converged over the next 15 minutes, we actually saw do a full breach
out of the water several times. We could actually hear the crash of his body
in the water. (Whump! Whump!) We only got to about a quarter mile away and then
he went back in the other direction. Carllie thoughT he was getting too close
for comfort but I wanted to smell the fish his breath…. (C: I was getting
preeetttty nervous, and I still think the last WHUMP! was less than 1/4 mile
away...more like 100 yards, way too close for comfort.)
Carllie: Again, we did a lot of downwind sailing, this time
with our drifter for awhile, then with the jib and screecher, and the seas were
very comfortable. After my long rest in the sleeping hull, I had to do my first
night-time watch in a long time, but found it a little easier as with our repaired
Furuno Radar I was able to check for nearby vessels and take visual sightings
to find them. I did this job very industriously so Garett, who had taken pity
on me and lain down in the cuddy cabin so I wouldn’t feel so alone, heard
the “beep beep beep” of my punching codes into the Radar and checking
the GPS every 10 minutes, not to mention me practising my Spanish in the cockpit
with our headphone CD player. Eventually, I ordered him down into the sleeping
hull so he could get some real rest, and "enjoyed" the rest of my
watch listening to the wind in the sails and the following seas and watching
for vessels and trying to attune myself to the rhythm of the sea rather than
fight it.
We hope that by the time we have to do our Big Crossing to
Hawaii (or?) from Mexico, we will have established a comfortable rhythm with
watches. These trips since Half Moon Bay have been so comfortable with the swells
spaced out at such long intervals, and that is what it’s going to be like
on our Big Crossing, so it should be okay. We sailed most of the way to Morro
Bay.
Friday, September 29, 2006
Garrett: At about 5 am while it was still very dark we were
visited by two Pacific White Sided Dolphins who zinged back in forth like errant
torpedoes through the bright phosphorescence for about a half an hour. (C: In
the dark you can't see their actual bodies, but you can see their phosphorescent
streaks through the water. We talked to them again.)
As the day dawned I tried raising all our sails--main, screecher
and drifter (900 square feet)--as a first-time configuration so that we could
continue to sail in the very light winds.
Carllie:Arrived at Morro Bay at 2:30 p.m., and passed the huge
“Morro Rock” at the entrance (a redundant name as “Morro”
means rock in Spanish). We toured the bay full of mainly moored boats, and came
back out towards the entrance to anchor near some other visiting yachties. The
Morro Bay Yacht Club offers reciprocal privileges to BWCA members, so we motored
over and were again welcomed by a nice lady who gave us a key when we signed
in. Next day, we luxuriated in lovely long hot showers in very well appointed
facilities, and even found, much to my delight, laundry machines located in
an outside room that we can access with a key they hang from their visitors’
board. This will save us a 10-block trip up the hill to a Laundromat hefting
two big bags of laundry. (Oh for the Good Old Days when I only had to trudge
down and up three flights of stairs to get to our building laundry room from
our 4th floor penthouse suite! Never again will I think doing laundry at home
is an onerous task!)
Approaching Morro Rock and entrance to Morro
Bay.
Morro Bay is a very pretty little spot (pop. 10,000 much to
our surprise) with lovely shops and a multitude of restaurants lining the beach-side
street. My hair was impossible, so I was delighted to find a salon where I could
get a cut for $30, and booked an appointment for Saturday morning.
Saturday September 30, 2006
My solo trip ashore on Saturday for the haircut was a first
on this adventure, as I’ve been literally joined to Garett at the hip,
and had not yet taken the dinghy ashore by myself. After initial reluctance
to do so, I realized this is going to be a long trip, and I may as well get
used to doing some things on my own now in a friendly, well-protected anchorage.
Baby steps! Yes, I’m a chicken at heart. It’s sad. But HEY! I’m
getting better. Solo night-time watches, changing and hoisting sails on my own,
foredeck work on the jib and with the anchor, plotting our course on our charts,
taking the dinghy to shore in a strange town, negotiating with strangers for
shower and landing privileges…what can I say? Watch out World!
I am now well shorn and feel great ("Please cut it as
short as possible without a crewcut, and as feminine as possible".) I told
Pam she did a great job, and I would come back but I won’t be here for
a looooong time. There’s really nothing like sitting in a comfy salon
and chatting with a friendly, skilled lady while she gives you a nice shampoo
and head massage, then clips away. I was happy to leave behind a pile of brown-grey
curly hair, and am now back to short straight hair that feels much much better.
Whatever possessed me to get that dumb perm? I have to face the facts: my days
of long hair are oooooovvvvver.
Walking back down the hill to the bay, I found
a little restaurant that served breakfast until 2 p.m., so when I got back to
the boat, after a really hard sell, I got Garett to go out for breakfast with
me. We had a wonderful veggie-cheese omelet with fried potatoes and sourdough
toast, but next time we’ll be more careful as we suspected too late that
the potatoes had been fried with bacon grease, and I tasted it for a few hours
after the fact. Yucky. Our non-vegetarian friends mayn’t understand but
if one has never eaten meat, it’s a very foreign taste, and for health
reasons we don’t like to ingest it at all, again as part of our efforts
as Kabalarian students.
After breakfast we trekked over to Morro Rock—a huge
580-foot-tall “rock” that is the result of volcanic activities 26
million years ago (give or take a million). We had been told this was a favorite
bird-watching site, and sure enough we found Bob with his telescope set up,
watching for Peregrine Falcons. Bob very generously invited us to peer through
his telescope at a Red Tailed Hawk that had nestled high up on a perch and happily
educated us on his favorite birds (raptors, but still birds). He informed us
that the Peregreine Falcons “reign” on this rock and they chase
out the much bigger Red Tailed Hawks as soon as they spot them. Peregrines,
he told us, are the fastest living creature, and have been clocked at speeds
of 246 mph. The female is bigger then the male by a third. Eventually, we saw
the Peregrine Falcons, and Bob adjusted his scope to their nesting spot, a “hole”
high up in the rocks, where the male had landed. Their prey is sea and shore
birds which are sometimes bigger than they are. Peregrine Falcons are very small
in comparison to our familiar Bald Eagle (only 2 lbs weight versus the Bald
Eagle’s 7-10 lbs), but very powerful.
It is now Sunday October 1st, and we are getting ready to motor
over to the sand dunes that form the outer barrier for this bay. We also have
to stock up on produce and a few staples today, so we’ve got a lot of
walking ahead of us. Our next stop will be Santa Barbara in about a week to
meet up with our friends, Helvan and Judy Tracey.
We were graced with another beautiful sunset on our second
night at Morro Bay. Gee, it's a nice rock.


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